Spain May 2018: following the conquistadors and Cervantes

Dear Friends: A week or so ago we were in Cuenca, Spain, where I looked for a trace of the Spanish conquistadores who in 1557 gave Cuenca, Ecuador its name. According to legend, those guys were marching north after conquering the Incas in Peru when they got the order to establish a city. They came to a place that reminded them of home (which most would never see again) and called it Cuenca. But here in Spain, in this gorgeous UNESCO city, I find nothing that connects the dots other than dramatic landscape and converging rivers (and the unrelated fact that the very modern archive is in the medieval inquisition building, with torture cells in the basement. That’s the archive in the photo above. It is an entirely different matter in the small hill town of Trujillo, a few hours to the southwest and variously described in the guidebooks – without a trace of irony – as: “where twenty American nations were conceived,” and “the cradle of the conquistadors.” A little over 500 years ago, a young man called Francisco Pizarro left Trujillo on his first trip to the New World. He was somewhere in his 20’s, the illegitimate son of an infantry colonel and a “woman of poor means,” but acknowledged by his father. After several expeditions around Panama with Francisco de Orellano, another homeboy, Pizarro landed on the coast of Peru in 1528 and began the terrible business of conquering the Inca Empire. He died in Cuzco in 1541, but Trujillo has never forgotten their local “heroes.” The town is choc-a-bloc with plaques on stone buildings that say “Palacio of Francisco de Orellano, discoverer of the Amazon,” and the “Museo de Francisco Pizarro, discoverer of Peru.”

I was particularly interested in visiting Trujillo because Orellano and all four Pizarro brothers were born here. All left for the riches of the New World and one of them, Gonzalo, ended up “owning” our land in Cañar for his services in helping conquer the Incas. His older half-brother Francisco made him governor of Quito and gave him extensive land grants, among them “the territory of the Cañaris and all the natives within it.” I’ve actually seen a facsimile of the document (not it below, but maybe one like it?)

Gonzalo’s putative job was to convert these “natives” to Catholicism, of course, but according to history he was one of the most corrupt, brutal and ruthless conquistadors. And like all the Pizarro brothers but one – he died a violent death, beheaded in 1548 by the Spanish king’s forces in Quito when he refused to support new laws to protect the indigenous peoples. Meanwhile, Francisco lost his head in Cuzco, the result of infighting with another conquistador, Diego de Almagro (not from Trujillo, apparently.)

Today, this small city of less than 10,000 is a lovely tourist destination largely because of the conquistadors’ grand palaces (now museums, municipal buildings, and hotels), and churches still gilded with gold beyond belief. All built on the fabulous riches plundered in 16-17th century South America. (I should also mention that Trujillo has amazing cheeses and chorizos and wines, located as it is on the dry hot plain of Extremadura.)

Here we had a wonderful 3-night stay in the small Hotel Baciyelmo owned by a delightful Dutch and Brazilian couple, Herman and Carla. It took a few discussions and additional reading to figure out that “baci-yelmo” is a compound word referring to a debate in the book Don Quijote where the beloved main character insists that a basin (baci) is a helmet (yelmo) to keep out the rain, while other characters insist it is nothing by a basin. Don Quijote’s sidekick Sancho Panza tries to settle the argument, and thus the word, baciyelmo, has come to be “a symbol of a courageous … attitude to unite two opposing worlds: fiction and reality.”

There it is! I’ve had a really hard time writing this blog, working off and on and giving up, but this quote perfectly captures my dilemma: I’m trying to reconcile the long-past reality of the violent invasion and subjugation of entire New World cultures – the effects still very much felt today – while we enjoy the lovely open-hearted generosity and beauty and gastronomy of present-day Spain (and now Portugal, where I’ve finally had a free day to struggle to the end with this blog).

It was Carla and Herman who told us about O Facho, a hotel in a tiny coastal corner of Portugal where we are the only guests in a 40-room hotel built in 1910. O Facho (or lighthouse back when it was actually a fire built on the cliff that served as a light beacon for ships) owned by Jorge and Elsa, a taciturn couple who mysteriously glide along the hallways turning on a wall sconce at exactly the right time, adjusting the classical music in the dining room or appearing by the fire in the bar to offer a beer or wine. Jorge – many years in Canada as immigrant Portuguese family before coming back 38 years ago and buying “this ruin” and restoring it while keeping its old-world charm. And Elsa – who reveals nothing but is younger and serves breakfast without a word. Pure peace – no credits cards, no TV, no shampoo, no body lotion, no website… (But I will happily reveal the email address for anyone who asks…)

 

In between Trujillo and here we have been to Evora, Portugal, a gem of a small city with loads of Roman ruins, where we had a wonderful meet-up with my sister Char and husband Fred. And then Lisbon, where we coincidently and briefly met up with good friends Andrew and Claire from London. But in Lisbon, what I think of as the “Seville Syndrome” happened: we just never got our bearings. Wrong hotel in a shabby neighborhood, confusion on the Metro that left us on opposite sides of the turnstile (“one person, one ticket” the guard kept saying as I gestured desperately), train tickets out of a diabolical machine that took too long to get and took us too far, a closed museum after a long bus ride on the evening of “International Night of Museums,” and missteps in finding good food. Oh well, this happens once or twice every trip and we are accepting (which is  not to say that Michael doesn’t complain…)

Now we ready for the last stage of our month’s travel on our way back to Madrid for our flight home to Portland on May 31. Two nights in Viseu (“one of Portugal’s best-kept secrets”), and in Spain a stop in Salamanca (“most magnificent main square in Spain”). Then we will be will back to Madrid and at our beloved Hostal Dulcinea on Calle Cervantes, down the street from the house where Miguel Cervantes died in 1616, and around the corner at the  where he was interred at the Convent of the Barefoot Trinitarians, with morning coffee downstairs at the cafe owned by Alfredo from Peru who will greet us with a kiss on each cheek. It all comes together in wonderful ways.

17 thoughts on “Spain May 2018: following the conquistadors and Cervantes

  1. Jude, you said it all, and just right! We will see Alfredo in an hour or so for breakfast,
    then walk the wonderful streets of Madrid until dinner time with the family.
    I loved reading about the history of Cuenca, the Incas, the Pizarro brothers, and Baciyelmo. Thank you once again! Love ,your younger sister Char, but one year
    older today.

  2. Judy, I wonderful account and so interesting to hear about how early the subjugation of the Canaris started. I had no idea that it started that early. We should follow in your footsteps if we get to Spain someday. Meanwhile I am greatly enjoying reading “Our House in the Clouds.” All this underscores the need to tell the story of the agrarian reform that saw the transformation of Canar from virtual slavery and egregious exploitation to the thriving place it is today with a Canari mayor, streets named after indigenous leaders and prosperity. A story to be told (as you are telling it).

  3. Judy and Michael, I have been remiss in writing and our time in Cañar with you seems like years ago! I can picture you at your table drawing the story of your time there (of course, I know you are not at your table in Ecuador)..but still..now that I have the fortunately insider’s perspective… I can keep one eye on that while the other is on your current story. I haven’t yet been to that part of Spain..always another trip in my future..and I was thinking about Trujillo (the name) and all the different towns in different countries that have that name..Panama, Peru, and even Honduras (I believe on the north coast in the east).. Will look forward to having you back here and scheduling some time in our garden…have some good wine for me! XOXO

  4. Thanks once again for a wonderful history lesson and news of your travels.
    It will be interesting to hear conversation about Spain when you visit with
    Donald and Marlys. So many details about all aspects of your travels are
    amazing and inspired and I feel I travel vicariously with you.

    Vida Lee

  5. Dear Judy, as wonderful as reading your travel stories, I look forward to a personal telling when you’re back in Portland soon.

  6. Queridos Judy y Michell me alegra mucho poder leer y disfrutar todo vuestro viaje por España y Portugal, el relato me gusta mucho, y me encanta como buscas, escarbas y encuentras, además de comer buen chorizo y excelentes quesos, disfruten mucho este pequeño espacio por aquellas bellas tierras de la península les recuerdo y quiero mucho
    Manuel

  7. What a beautiful blog entry, Judy. This was worth waiting for. I empathize with your struggle to describe the brutal history of namesakes while basking in the open-hearted civility of modern day Spain. Contradictions are the stuff of life!

    I will email you privately with more mundane questions of your return to Portland and upcoming gatherings. Can’t wait to see you! It’s been a beautiful, albeit mostly dry spring here. Bruce calls it “scorching” : I call it “paradise” !!!

  8. Great blog, as always. It’s hard to reconcile the bloody past of Spain with the current state of such towns as Trujillo and Cuenca. We enjoyed roaming the hill town of Ronda, but one night Lynn had nightmares of those who had been thrown off the roman bridge during various conflicts there. Hope your reentry to Portland goes well.

  9. Judy, I loved this account of your trip in Spain and Portugal, especially because Cuenca, Spain and Cuenca, Ecuador are two of my favorite places to spend time.

    Thank you for the interesting history lesson. Sandy Kunz

    • Thanks Sandy – so nice to know others who appreciate the two Cuencas! I’m sure you’ve got great photos from each… abrazo, Judy

  10. Thank you, Judy! I am living vicariously through you. It has been a long time since I have been able to take an international adventure, and it looks like it will be a while longer still, so I am enjoying life through your lens.

  11. OK Judy. Gotta give me the e mail address of ‘O Facho’ since Jan has accompanied me 10 times to Ecuador it is time I surrender and we go somewhere she might choose. She liked what you had to say and I must admit, thought my Portuguese is weak, I’m sure a week or two in Portugal would liven it right back up. Keep the good blogs coming. Ed (I just arrived on Vashon Island from Quito this week and I needn’t tell you how wonderful a spring day at 75 degrees can be.)

  12. Thanks so much, Judy, for tying together the home town of the Pizarros with the region of Ecuador you know so well. Half way around the world and across more than 4-1/2 centuries, it’s important for us to remember how the clash of civilizations played out in the “new” world.

    I hope we get the chance to see you when you’re back in Portland,

    -Will White, Mosier, Oregon

  13. Queridos Judy y Michael, como siempre sus viajes tan llenos de aventuras que también puedo revivir mientras las leo. Buen viaje de retorno a casa. Did I tell you that Javier lives in Zaragoza recently?

  14. Hi Judy and Michael,
    if you struggled to write your story it comes across as always engaging and alluring. I love reading about the history that formed the future – how young the ‘men’ were that left such an permanent mark on time and place.
    I hope soon we can visit Spain, Portugal and you both in your home in the Ecuador .
    look forward to visiting when you are in Portland.
    carole

  15. Great pleasure to come across this in Goodreads! Salamanca, the piazza, I spent a lot of time there con cervezas and meeting people from the world, while my GF studied Spanish (of course) at the famous school. We lived there briefly, then returned to Vienna. The piazza, scuse, plaza, does rival the one in Venice.
    That is now quite a long while ago. Time to revivify the images with a visit.
    Que le vaya bien!

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